Ragù alla Bolognese

Make the soffritto: Heat olive oil or butter in a heavy-bottomed pot. Add onion, carrot, and celery. Sauté over low heat until soft and golden.

Add pancetta: Let it render and slightly crisp.

Add the ground meat: Increase heat to medium. Add the beef and break it up with a spoon. Let it brown slowly without stirring too often. It should lose its raw color and start to catch on the bottom slightly.

Deglaze with hot water: Splash in 2–4 tablespoons of salted hot water. Scrape up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan and stir well. Let the liquid evaporate completely.

Add the milk: Pour in the milk and stir. Simmer gently until absorbed.

Add tomato: Stir in the tomato paste.

Simmer low and slow: Add water to prevent drying out during simmering. Reduce heat to very low, partially cover the pot, and simmer for 3 hours, stirring occasionally.

Season to finish: Add salt and nutmeg.