Cacio e pepe

Method

  1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Salt it with half the amount you normally would — the pecorino is very salty.
  2. Cook the pasta for 2 minutes less than the packet says. Keep all the cooking water.
  3. While the pasta cooks, toast the ground pepper in a wide pan over medium heat for about 1 minute until fragrant. Add a small ladleful of pasta water — it will bubble. Let it cook for 10 seconds, then turn off the heat.
  4. Make the pecorino cream: put the grated pecorino in a bowl. Scoop out a ladleful of pasta water and let it sit for 20–30 seconds to cool slightly — this is critical. Pour it gradually into the pecorino, stirring fast with a fork as if beating eggs. Keep adding water slowly until you have a thick, smooth, paste-like cream. It should hold its shape but not be stiff.
  5. When the pasta is nearly done, turn the heat back on under the pepper pan. Lift the pasta directly into the pan with tongs — do not drain, you want it wet. Toss for 1–2 minutes, adding splashes of cooking water, until the pasta is just cooked and a starchy, glossy liquid coats everything.
  6. Take the pan off the heat. Wait 20 seconds — the pasta must not be piping hot or the pecorino will seize.
  7. Transfer the pasta and any liquid in the pan into the bowl with the pecorino cream. Toss immediately and vigorously. Add more cooking water a little at a time if the sauce is too thick, or more pecorino if too loose. The sauce should be silky, creamy, and cling to every strand.
  8. Serve immediately with an extra grind of black pepper.
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